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#109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!)
Manage episode 454902763 series 2391084
The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?"
Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it!
THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.
Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in!
Here's a rundown of some key moments:
0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel.
2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing.
5:30 - Some interesting training history.
9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research.
10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance.
10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent.
12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach.
17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training.
20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport.
23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades!
24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers...
29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes.
32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes.
33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance.
36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen.
40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X.
44:00 - The best supplement for climbers?
45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation.
51:00 - Personalized nutrition
52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach.
54:50 - The power of Discipline.
58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals.
58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+?
59:50 - A few questions from listeners...
1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes?
1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same?
1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM)
1:08:45 - Nutrient timing.
1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments
1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel!
1:14:00 - Eric's final comments
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.
111 episoder
Manage episode 454902763 series 2391084
The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?"
Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it!
THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.
Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in!
Here's a rundown of some key moments:
0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel.
2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing.
5:30 - Some interesting training history.
9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research.
10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance.
10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent.
12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach.
17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training.
20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport.
23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades!
24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers...
29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes.
32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes.
33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance.
36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen.
40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X.
44:00 - The best supplement for climbers?
45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation.
51:00 - Personalized nutrition
52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach.
54:50 - The power of Discipline.
58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals.
58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+?
59:50 - A few questions from listeners...
1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes?
1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same?
1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM)
1:08:45 - Nutrient timing.
1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments
1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel!
1:14:00 - Eric's final comments
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.
111 episoder
Alle episoder
×1 #111: Training & Life Upgrades to Send 2025! 47:12
1 #110: Join My "SEND 2025" Challenge! (deadline to join January 3, 2025) 8:20
1 #109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!) 1:16:23
1 #108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! 1:03:05
1 #107: Last-Minute Secrets to Climbing Your Best (and Preventing the Punt!) 38:01
1 #106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance 20:01
1 #105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends 15:31
1 #104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids 14:44
1 #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years 19:36
1 #102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal! 1:29:58
1 #101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine 1:04:14
1 #100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder! 1:04:55
1 #99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time! 56:24
1 #98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing 35:01
1 #97: EXPERT: Grip Better! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance 37:38
1 #96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) 1:20:45
1 #95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 43:45
1 #93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers 43:57
1 #92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium 38:25
1 #91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project! 58:28
1 #90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best! 24:57
1 #89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip 32:21
1 #88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) 29:30
1 #87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) 33:22
1 #86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin 1:18:25
1 #84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You 45:17
1 #83: Training (and Life) “Edits” to Climb Better & Achieve Greatly 51:43
1 #82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) 33:07
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