The Market for Brunello w/ Giampiero Bertolini, Biondi-Santi

XChateau Wine Podcast

Written by the Biondi-Santi family in 1967, the appellation rules for Brunello di Montalcino are some of the strictest in Italy. This has led to Brunello vineyard land becoming some of the most expensive in the country and led Brunello on the pathway to becoming one of the world's iconic wine regions. Giampiero Bertolini, CEO of Biondi-Santi, explains the terroir, regulations, and market for Brunello di Montalcino and his belief in pursuing value and quality over quantity.

Detailed Show Notes:

Giampiero's background - studied economics, worked at Procter & Gamble, entered the wine industry by chance

Brunello di Montalcino - hill in Tuscany, b/w coast and Apennine mountains, protected by mountains and with altitude

• There are lots of different soils, and each location on a hill is different
• Sangiovese - only appellation in Italy with only one varietal, >150 clones (Biondi Santi uses 46 clones)
• 1967 - 78 producers; today >250

Quality has improved over the last 20 years, with more emphasis on viticulture

1970s - Franco Biondi Santi trialed 40 clones and chose BBS11 for their soil

Regulated production system

• Created by the Biondi-Santi family in 1967
• Limited yields (Brunello - 8 tons/ha; Rosso - 9 tons/ha)
• Strict aging requirements - barrel min 12 months (Rosso), 24 months (Brunello, Riserva); bottle min 4 months (Rosso), 24 months (Brunello, Riserva); Brunello min 5 years total
• Samples tasted by the Commission panel
• Appellation expanded ~20 years ago, now frozen at 2,100 ha
• 2023 - Rosso appellation expanded (550 → 900ha)

Biondi-Santi has a target style for their wines and matches vineyard lots to create style (~60% Brunello, 25% Rosso, remainder Riserva when made)

Some producers make single vineyards now (both Rosso and Brunello), but Biondi-Santi is not focused on that

The most expensive vineyard land in Italy ~₠1M/ha, a significant rise in 2015 when the 2010 vintage was released

Foreign investors (France, Brazil, Belgium, Swiss) are increasing the value of the land

Market for Brunello

• The biggest is the US, developed by producer Banfi
• Other vital markets: Switzerland, the UK (higher-end wines), Hong Kong, Italy

Sales Channels

• Rosso - more casual restaurants, wine bars, BTG
• Brunello - 50/50 on and off-premise
• Riserva - mostly high-end retail as it is for collectors

Future of Brunello - hopes the focus is on value and quality and not higher volume

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